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When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.